Magnesiumdüngung

[Sonja Schweitzer 641]

Guten Abend zusammen,

ich würde meine Nepenthes gern zusätzlich mit Magnesium/Bittersalz düngen. Kann mir dazu jemand etwas zur geeigneten Dosierung sagen?

[Alexander Fisch 866]

Guten Abend zusammen,

ich würde meine Nepenthes gern zusätzlich mit Magnesium/Bittersalz düngen. Kann mir dazu jemand etwas zur geeigneten Dosierung sagen?

Hallo Sonja

Eine Prise auf 500 gr Nepenthes.

:sleep:

Bearbeitet 23. November 2014 von Alexander Fisch

[Nicky Westphal 2.562]

 

Eine Prise auf 500 gr Nepenthes.

:sleep:

.. und dann gut garen lassen :lol:

 

Jetzt im Ersnt , ich hab da keine Ahnung. ich verwende Osmocote.

 

Grüße Nicky

[Alexander Fisch 866]

Ok Spaß beiseite.Hier eine Empfehlung als Zitat:

 

-       What is not understood by everyone in these forums is that nepenthes has a symbiotic relationship with a fungus and like lichens which also occupy a similar bland existence, with the help of this symbiosis, nepenthes can and do utilize nutrients from root matter. the whole idea of these plants being obligatory carnivorous is blown out of proportion. If these plants were totally dependant upon animal proteins, they would be more like a fungus or other forms which can utilize dead matter exclusively. If one observes a seedling nepenthes in the wild, they must first understand that they have no source for nutrition from insects. This comes later as the plant develops and grows. From thousands of seedlings the few that survive must find a compatable site to establish a good root system. Some nutrients must be present for it to survive. If they were totally dependant upon insects for their sustainence, then every single seedling would survive and develop into maturity. But that doesn't happen. just the handful that do find sites where nutrients are present for ROOTS can they get a head start to grow and develop. The pitchers that are functional for capturing insects usually do not develop until the plant reaches some size dimensions and for them to reach these dimensions they must have root nutrients to do so.

 

-       Everyone always missed the part where I go into serial detail regarding fertilizer/ing. But everyone feeds more crickets, mealworms, and fish pellets to get their plants to grow (hogwash!).
Plants (higher plants including nepenthes as an advanced species in evolution) has developed a special method of digesting prey as a SUPPLEMENTAL nutritional source. As they develop from seedlings into mature plants they may rely totally on insect matter after getting established originally feeding via root system.

I use Peter's, Liquid Seaweed by GrowMore and always add Superthrive. I also use Epson salts for species requiring high magnesium soils. that's it! I fertilize seedlings once per week in between regular deep flushings of pure water. I grow them in as much light as they can withstand and pot them as they require it.

That's it! They capture roaches, flies, ants and mosquitos as a SUPPLEMENTAL source for food. Recall N. lowii pitchers relying on bird droppings. Well not all of their droppings are hoop shot into the pitchers, some droppings fall to the ground, become assimilated by the symbiotic fungi and guess what? Their roots absorb the remainder. Hmmm, sounds like fertilizing to me! go figure! besides the bird droppings, when the pitchers dry up and curl below the plants, the remains of insect bodies and soup in the dried pitchers becaome in a way like fertilizers out of a bag,...just say organic fertilizers. duh, they absorb this through their roots and guess what anything fed via the roots are called? yesuum, FERTILIZERS! go figure, nature's fertilizing package after absorbing nutrients from pitcher soup, they rely on decomposing matter from dried pitchers that form a compost layer nearby. imagine that! all the remains of insects have a good source of nitrogen, probably higher than what was absorbed through the pitcher walls. Drop one of those dried pitchers next to your tomato plant and watch that too take off and grow like a monster! Its already broken down by the plant so the rest is easy!
Fertilizer in nature's realms! imagine that! (Mike, Hawaii)

 

Regarding Osmocote. I have tried it and feel that some of the salts espeially on seedlings might be a bit much. This is why I dislike Miracle gro because the salt build up is too harsh and may actually always simulate the plants as looking thirsty while all along they are burning from salts to the roots. I really don;t know who started the idea that avoiding fertilizer solution to the crowns will burn them. No such thing. With as many plants as you have seen do you even think I have that much time to avoid the growing points?? Everything gets it either by hozon, or hose end attachments and even by hand via five gallon bucket with a metal can. the entire plant, potting mix and leaves gets watered with fertilizer solution. As for strength, I use full strength and get excellent results. But I must urge that plants should be watered well in between fertilizings. I fertilize weekly. Like pick a day and do it on that day religiously. I will post a new photo probably less than a month from the other massed photos and compare if you see anything in that short a time. I suggest Superthrive if available. but if not, try any Vit B root solution at full strength. Soak the root and soil region when fertilizing. I find it best to fertilize after the sun heat of the day. I never fertilize the plants if they are bone dry, I try to wet it with plain water to allow translocation of fertilizer solution to better saturate the soil so the plant can obtain more out of it.

if you fertilize, I would also suggest to use a media with minimal sphagnum as the fertilizer will break down the moss rapidly. Try finer orchid bark mixed with perlite, and some coco (few) and some peat moss if you need more humidity retaining particles.

After the plants develop properly and get to a size where pitchers are produced, you may cut off the fertilizer to infrequent feedings and or even take them off completely, that's up to you. But pitchers need to access lots of insects naturally.

I find plants develop faster, more uppers and even flowers rapidly with better nutrients. Even rooted cuttings develop faster filling their pots with roots faster and more rapid.

If you have plants with a chlorotic leaf, try adding Epson Salts to the fertilizer solution. Gradually from a tablesthingy per gallon is fine. Less can be used if you're worried. Epson salts is pure Magnesium. Like ultramafic soils which many inhabit, the magnesium helps them along the way to develop properly. I have lost the red spotting completely from regular feedings of Epson salts to plants with a regular fertilizing program.

I am not in the business to sell nepenthes, so I want everyone o get a plant just once and get it big and growing to maturity. Please look at my photos, I don't have to buy something common like N. veitchii or N. lowii over and over again because when not feeding them they are slowly growing/ slowly dying and look the same day after day, week after week. Many nepenthes suppliers always have the same things for sale because most people kill theirs. Ever notice how healthy the plants arrive only to have them dry up, shrink, then die? Its because you took them off the fertilizers and they must rely now on just insects and photosynthesis (big yawns) and nothing to stimulate their rooting system for faster growth. In the wild nepenthes MUST grow fast otherwise they'll get swallowed up by faster growing weed species. How can they grow fast from just insects alone???? They don't, they rely on root nutrients to get there. N. sibuyanensis grows in areas where run-off from rains occur. Water makes solutions of minerals and nutrients by moving them around. Since N. sibuyanensis has evolved to grow in these wet areas, I would bet that their root system has developed an intensive network to catch what ever nutrients to pass by from rushing water. Their seeds don't have appendages to float in the wind, but rather sink and wash along with this rushing water. Always remember moving water is mineral and nutrient rich. Fresh water always washes nutrients from one region, dissolves them in solution and (hey doesn't this sounds like making a solution of Peter's and fertilizing it to the roots??) places them somewhere else. Many times where they have accumulated, many weed and seedlings grow rapidly and quickly occupy that new media-nutrient space. Rainwater is also another topic for a future column. Rainwater is electrosized, its charged ionically. Rainwater also contains nutrients in solution, primarily nitrogen from the air. This is why so many plant species responds so drastically when it rains. You can have a sprinkler system water a lawn until it drowns every night. yet when it rains even for a few hours, the rain water makes Rain Lilies (Zephyranthes..sp?) grow out of dormancy and bloom. How is this possible, its because the rain water has nutrients in it. This is why even the leaves of plants stand at right angles when it rains. the electricity in the water also aids in nutrient absorption. So look around yourself, plants are even fertilized out in the jungles of Borneo! and when ever I hear that they are obligatory insect feeders I just have to laugh

[Maik Rehse 327]

Hi Sonja,

 

hast du Mangelerscheinungen an deinen Pflanzen oder wie kommst du da drauf? Wenn überhaupt würde ich es nur mit einer stark verdünnten Lösung als Blattdünger versuchen. Allerdings weiß ich nicht, ob Mg-Ionen über das Blatt aufgenommen werden können. Aber Bittersalz ins Substrat ist riskant da dir wohl niemand eine genaue Dosierung sagen können wird. Und dann hast du auch immer noch einen Schwung Sulfat mit im Substrat... Schmeiß doch einfach ein paar fette Schnecken in die Kannen, bei mir gehen die Viecher sogar freiwillig in die Kannen ;-)

 

Gruß Maik

[Sonja Schweitzer 641]

Hi Sonja,

 

hast du Mangelerscheinungen an deinen Pflanzen oder wie kommst du da drauf? Wenn überhaupt würde ich es nur mit einer stark verdünnten Lösung als Blattdünger versuchen. Allerdings weiß ich nicht, ob Mg-Ionen über das Blatt aufgenommen werden können. Aber Bittersalz ins Substrat ist riskant da dir wohl niemand eine genaue Dosierung sagen können wird. Und dann hast du auch immer noch einen Schwung Sulfat mit im Substrat... Schmeiß doch einfach ein paar fette Schnecken in die Kannen, bei mir gehen die Viecher sogar freiwillig in die Kannen ;-)

 

Gruß Maik

Hi Maik,

ich habe keine Mangelerscheinungen an meinen Pflanzen. Ich finde nur,sie wachsen sehr,sehr langsam. Zudem kultiviere ich Extrem-Hochlandnepenthes mittlerweile in einem Terrarium mit Kühlung,da kommen halt keine Viecher ´rein. Deshalb die Frage nach der Düngung.

[Andreas Wistuba 1.811]

Hallo Alexander,

in dem Zitat wird ziemlich viel durcheinander gewirbelt. Ein ziemlicher Mix aus Wahrheiten, Behauptungen und totalem Blödsinn. Wer schreibt denn sowas???

Das Salz stammt übrigens nicht aus dem Drucker und hat auch sonst nichts mit Epson zu tun sondern wird im Englischen oft Epsom Salt genannt. Das kommt daher, weil es früher bei Epsom abgebaut wurde. Es ist natürlich auch kein reines Magnesium sondern Magnesium Sulfat (MgSO₄ x 7H₂O).

Es ist wahr, dass je nach Giessgewohnheiten, Carnivoren häufig unter Magnesium und sogar Calcium-Mangel leiden.

Ich habe da schon einiges herum-probiert und kann später mal ein par sichere Konzentrationen heraussuchen. Jetzt gibt's erstmal Abendessen...

Grüße

Andreas

[Alexander Fisch 866]

@ Andreas

Kannst du hier nochmal nachlesen.

http://forum.carnivoren.org/index.php?/topic/19013-nepenthes-duengen/

Bearbeitet 23. November 2014 von Alexander Fisch

[Berni Toller 1.015]

gibts was neues zu dem Thema? Hab einige Nepenthes mit hellen gelben Flecken, vielleicht ein Magnesium Mangel?

 

Grüße Berni

[Christian Voss 2.473]

 

[Hermann Wistuba 157]

Hallo,

Andreas ist auf Tour und ist ab 27.8. wieder im Land, fragt dann nochmal nach.

 

Gruß

Hermann Wistuba

 

[Marc S. 128]

Halla zusammen,

ich dünge regelmässig mit Magnesiumsulfat (1 mM ca. all 1.5 Monate) und Calciumchlorid (0.3-1 mM alle 2 Monate), da ich immer mit dest. Wasser giesse und überschüssiges Wasser abgesaugt wird. Bis jetzt scheint es gut zu funktionieren!

 

Gruss

Marc